Caribbean dreaming: The Cuba Chronicles Part I: Havana


On August 7th, as our plane ascended towards high altitude leaving the Miami skyline in our midst, we began our 45 minute transfer to Havana. As the cloud cover ceased and we made our way towards Cuba’s capital, the absence of any imposing buildings was to be expected. The airport was also equally unassuming. I landed in the country with limited knowledge of it’s workings or ways; I was never much of a history buff, nor did politics really rouse me. Ignorance could be a more apt adjective to describe this, that or I just really, really love a good surprise. I definitely got that and it was as pleasant as it was humbling.




This is no ordinary place. If Marty McFly had been our designated chauffeur, nothing would have been amiss. His DeLoreon car would have slotted in just lovely amidst the myriad of vintage and medieval motors that adorn the rugged roads. I say medieval, I’m talking real, living, breathing, neighing, trotting, cantering, galloping horse power. They’re also very lucky to have this mode of transport. One tour guide informed us that private car ownership is as little as 2%. Limited fuel and set wages across all professions render most people without their own auto.





Our hotel was located in Parque Central in the very core of the historical half of Havana.  Our balcony overlooking the park was an ideal observation deck. From here, I had the pleasure of witnessing a wedding parade of multi-colored motorcades, like a county final at home, just a little bit extra. At ground level, I enjoyed the enthusiasm of the street photographer who greeted every couple he met with Foto romántica!


That evening, we rambled through the rough-hewn streets where you were as likely to find a giant mass of rubble as you were to stumble upon a trendy bar. No more than Shakira’s hips, these streets don’t lie. Cuba is renowned for it’s rows of colorful facades, at a distance they appear bright and brilliant. However, many of them, up close, are exactly that, a facade. Chipped patches of paint adorn these brittle buildings and the people who dwell inside often look equally weathered. This doesn’t appear to dampen their spirits however, they have strong family bonds and the Cubans have a definitive aura and an air of resilience about them. These hardy Havana locals focus on what they have not what they lack.




Every town in Cuba has a square, naturally enough. (One pun and done!) We visited Plaza Vieja where the private houses and restaurants with their bright archades and balustrades bear UNESCO status, given the architectural character of the area.  We sipped the prettiest cocktails (full of the finest foliage) atop a balcony here and simply drank in the view. The next morning we headed off on a vintage car tour.


We bounced around in a peony pink Chevy-no such thing as seatbelts or suspension in these bad boys! We headed to the Plaza de la Revolución where Ché’s face takes pride of place across from the striking tower from which Fidel addressed the Cuban people. Interestingly enough, The Rolling Stones provided a free concert here for over one million Cubans. Two contrasting events, yet the locals recall both with much satisfaction (Ok, I swear I’m done now)



Description


We drove down by The Malecón where the seawall stretches for 8km skirting the side of the city. There are no cruise ships crawling towards the shore however, the U.S Embassy has also closed since Obama exited The White House. It is definitely a privilege to be able to visit this place. We then strolled through the streets, where homes open out onto the street. Our tour guide informed us that because all jobs are considered social work, and all pay is equal (approx. $40 a month) many members of each family share the same living quarters and each home is rented from the Government at a rate of $50 per month. There is no such thing as WiFi in these dwellings either.


Which leads me to my next point. Most of us love to detach from reality when we go on vacation, Cuba is the dream in this regard. One hour WiFi scratch-cards can be bought if you need to browse the Inter-web. I saw this as the perfect way to decrease my screen time. Mindfulness made easy! 

These people face a lot of restrictions in life, they lack the freedom to travel to many places (Visa/financial restrictions) and the luxuries I take for granted. No such thing as my obnoxious Starbucks soy milk Frappuccino here! The Cubans live a simple life but is no less purposeful than that of any other person.



 One of the last stops on our tour brought us to John Lennon Park, where a statue of the man can be found sat cross legged on a bench with his emotive lyrics etched at his feet:


"Dirás que soy un soñador pero no soy el único” 


"You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one."


At first glance, it may seem pretty random to see this person perched in ponderous pose not too far from the Havana hubbub. However it is easy to see how his message resonates with these people.



When I asked one local why they drive vintage cars, thinking it was a tourist incentive, he informed me that they were all they had. They merely maintained them and upgraded them over the years. These cars have been passed down through generations and they are as invaluable as they are sentimental. He simply said: "When you have nothing, you have to be creative." I sat and processed this statement in awe of what I had heard and tipped my Cuban fedora to him. 




















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